To make a BookIn order to make a book
: making a dress; making a channel; making a work of art.
To bookbind your own hardcover book
Bookbinding is an old handicraft, but actually it is not very hard to do and with almost no exercise you can achieve really great results. The only thing you need is at least 32 A4 or US Letter size pages to make half an A4 (half US Letter size book), although smaller as well as more pages will do.
Transparent or thick or thin papers and of course pre-printed or even printed on plain or thin film. You' ll need PVA (Elmer's White glue) or a plastic sticker (in the UK it's Copydex, maybe someone could tell me what it's named in the US), (a sticky pistol, if you have it, would help with one of the steps, but it's not obligatory).
Every old stuff's enough for the front page. You' re going to bind your papers in eight pieces. I' ve found eight pages to be a good number. because you fold them in half, each page is going to make four pages of your book, so this eight page pile is going to make 32 pages.
You should have at least four of these eight pages, i.e. 128 pages. If you use normal stationery or stationery on which you have already placed a headline and footing (remember to do this the right way around and keep in mind that there will be 4 headlines and 4 footlines per piece of stationery.
When you want to interfere with different types of documents, keep in mind that they will continue to appear in the book. Pleat as cleanly as possible and keep the sheet of tape as aligned as possible by folding each of the eight piles crosswise in the middle. Make sure you keep the sheet nicely level, open each sheet of eight and turn it over.
Put the upside down pile of papers on an rubber band (about 5 cm from the side of the page exactly on the fold) and press it down until you have stitched the pages.
If, like me, you have a long-sleeve folder, just tack the eight stacks of sheets in two places..... You' re going to be the core of the book. They have made at least four of the eight sheets / 32 pages of folio and these must be glued together.
You can either get a boyfriend to help or use huge staples or bulldog ties (or even a elastic strap, I suspect) to hook the Folio together. If they are all beautifully lined up, put adhesive only on the spikes of the leaves. It is possible to use glues (which was what was done for BTW originally), but you have to be sure that they do not drop into the joints between the foolios (maybe it would be better to paint the fabric.) As an alternative, you can use glues for this part.
Hotmelt is also used in the bookbinding sector here, making it perfectly suited for use. Fugazzi has emphasized that you can have your hardcover pages cut with a real printed or copied one stop at your own one-stop-store. Note that the first if you do this, you might end up more of a chaos of the edges of the paper than if you just had it.
When you want to make the edges, the most important one is the one opposite the weave, because when the sheet is wrapped over all sides, they will vary slightly in length according to where they are in the coloure. You have to keep the rules very stable and make many repetitive incisions, making sure that with each incision the sheet is trimmed to at least one sheet from side to side.
When you have a real chipper that can slice through piles of papers (e.g. at work or at school), this is the best finishing you will get. Trim or not, you have now completed the book and it' s ready to go on the front page.....
Lay the sheets on a sheet of rigid cardboard so that the binding is aligned with a flat side, and then pull around the sheet to create an approximately 5 mm margin on the other three sides. Wellpappe is as thin as the case, just like the thin Schaumstoffkern (Foamboard), but the best kind of cardboard is the rigid cardboard, which is used as base for sketch and sketch blocks.
Loose the hardback and envelopes. Trim the back so that it has the same length as the cover and the same cover thicknesses. Place the book cover and spines on the back of the selected cloth or hide and highlight them so that an edge of approx. 25 mm is formed all around.
Cuts out the materials. You can use any kind of fabric, although very thick fabric is hard to wrinkle and stick (but hey, who knows how skilful and skilful you are?). Actually I used footage from a set of my ex-wife's toast, I thought I could give her the book as a Christmas present in an ironical way..... don't fret and she had her kicked out anyway....
Apply an even layer of adhesive (white adhesive or solvent-based adhesive ) over the sheets and place them on the left side of the fabric with the front side facing down (i.e. the side of the fabric that is not normally visible, that has the design upside down, etc.). Ensure that they are arranged cleanly in a line so that they are level and even to each other and that there is a distance of about one or two thickness of the cards used between the back and the individual covers.
Apply an even coat of hotmelt or adhesive around the edges of the panels and apply the fabric over the panel to conceal the edges. Working on one side after the other. Clean the edges. When using thicker materials, you may need to remove some of the materials to be concealed under the pleat to prevent the edges from becoming too bulk.
Lubricate some hotmelt (or solvent-based adhesive ) in two strips on the centre edge of the top plank and make sure that no adhesive gets onto the back plank. Then, place the wrapped tissue on the back plate so that it lies in the center and ONLY the thin "wings" of wool are stuck to the tops.
Do NOT glue the book back to the cotton-coated, hardcovered strip of hardcover, although you should make sure that it is correctly stuck up to the edge of the book covers, as this is the connection that makes the book stronger and prevents the page pad from slipping out of the envelope.
It' probably a good thing to keep the book with the piece ofaper on its back while it is drying, because if you let it close when drying, parts of it could get stuck together that you don' t want to have. Her book's almost ready.
It' s functional already a tough book, but the next stage will make it look like a genuine book and hide all parts of the pleated film. You can use almost all types of papers for the liner. Traditional use was made of buffed marble. You can do it yourself now (hey, I already feels like another instructor) or buy it in leaf format in most good handicraft stores, or get a piece of marble from my site (where you will see many other things like this).
You can also use some old wrap or just a little old wrapper or just a little darker. Fodder papers are like the linings of a costly wetsuit..... hid until someone opens them..... In the ideal case, the piece of hardcover should be a small part smaller than the size of the cotton-wool tree so that you can align it cleanly and twice as long as the width of the paper-wool tree so that it is covering the inside of the hardcover.
Half-pleat the liner across. Lubricate the inside of the envelope and the first page with hotmelt or solvent-based adhesive. Gently place one half of the pleated liner on the first side so that it is aligned cleanly with the edges of the pap.
Then, make sure it goes into the edge of the joint between the wrapper and the wrapper, unfold the wrapper and stick it to the inside of the wrapper so that it is covering all the bent fabric and the inside of the carton. Do this again for the back of the book.
When the first piece of papermaking becomes a little wrinkled, allow at least one full drying session and then press it over the side with a moderate flattener. Not all the folds will come out, but it will make the page a whole piece shallower and just try to use a little less adhesive for the next book.
Give them as gifts, make them for your students, make them for your family. Hold a figurative Journal, you never know, one days you might be famed, then you think how chill it would be if they dig out your Journals full not only of anxiety and perceptual adolescent glimpses into the injustice of it all, but is also presented in a book that you made yourself and not some inexpensive (or expensive) Notebook or Log that you purchased from memory like millions at a time.