Pencil WritingWriting with pencil
Maybe if you don't hear the Erasable podcast and aren't a member of our ever-growing Facebook group, you might have just watched the first edition of Plumbago, the comrade Andy Welfle's game. Volume II is about to fall: With 36 pages this magazine is packed with text and illustrations.
We celebrate the hacking mind, which we call a pencil that has been adapted from its initial look to the users styles and tastes. Order the next second edition in advance and you will receive a PDF of the first edition and perhaps a small one. Our first contribution was a quote from Mr Hemingway: Hemingway on Writing, p. 51 (from By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, p. 216).
I' ve often asked myself what Dad could do with a pencil blogs, a pencil podcasts, blackwings, handicraft grind. Will he tell us we're gonna waste our precious little hours writing or just livin'? He never told us what kind of pencil he liked. I' m having difficulty believing that someone with such a preference for rituals would not have a favourite type/brand/model of pencil.
So if you can't really use the same notepad for some kind of magic or charms, maybe a pencil would do the trick? Sure. We' ll finish our run of articles on maximising the power of long life writing pens with a quick look at pencil supplies. I almost always like a long point for journalling.
And I like a point that begins sharply and is able to keep clean strokes without having to stop and focus on every single point or even every side. Even the best rubbers to preserve pencil writing do not lubricate, delete or damage the pencil. There is no rubber review in this diary, but I generally use the Staedtler Mars etcher or the Faber-Castell one.
Like I said before, I like an old card, a slice of a Rhodia block or some other flat and supple material for my blotting-papers. Are there other hints or equipment companions have that they use to keep pencil writing secure for them? We' ve found that pencil is the ideal media to preserve your typeface for the time being.
We' ve recently investigated what to look for in a pencil for journalling and/or long-term writing and some of them. We' re going to deal with pencil today to make sure your pencil is safely stored. If you want to fill a notepad or magazine with a pencil, there are some things you have to think about when choosing it, and all the more so if you want to keep the font forever.
Helix weaves can cause the pages to scratch against others, causing graffiti and impairing the readability of your typeface for the time being. This is solved by using a huge elastic strap from Notepads & Co. Notepads are firmly attached to the PUR back and do not scratch much.
Also remember that a notepad packed in a bag does not move very much against other papers, that the cloth in your bag (and your bottom/leg, etc.) will hold the pages together anyway. You can' t trust it! A Scout Books paperback collects more pencil from the tip of the pencil than the markings you are trying to get.
Sometimes that's good, the pencil isn't always neat. However, when writing we want to write, smudging can make words, rows - even pages - unreadable. It' even worsened by the smoothness of the papers. Writing doesn't even have a great opportunity to remain on the spot. For example, the sheet of Rhodia pad stock is a nice and flat sheet on which you can skin a skat.
But I wouldn't believe the words that are destined for coming generation. If the diagram is too dense or the line is too thin, writing may become denser, resulting in less sharpness. Attempt to pencil and intend that your writing with pencil forever. Nowadays, most large brand registers (moleskine, field notes, etc.) are hardcovered using acid-free papers.
This is, I suppose, somewhat less problematic than using inks, since the reaction of pencil is not the same as with other inks. Embrittled and discoloured papers, however, can be a problem for any writing media. Like a pencil, the wrench is the equilibrium. If I like a piece of tissue with a middle teeth, slight (or no) line and a cover that won't let the tissue grate.
This is more difficult to illustrate than to give an example, as with pencil. Notepads & Co - This is probably my favourite laptop papers at the moment. Its 70# supply absorbs nicely and the low rigidity of the sheet combined with the PUR bond keeps the sides still.
The Moleskine - I vow that Moleskine has been quiet (because aloud would admit that the papers were previously inferior?) upgrading her pap. It' a great finish for your less supple pens, and the rubber band keeps everything in place. PAPERBLANS - I haven't used one for some time, but the sheet is very rigid for beautiful pencil outlines.
The stencilling / transmission of graphics is very low on this type of sheet, even without blotters. I learnt in conversation with Joey and Adam that this piece of writing was partly made for pencil and shows it. The newer 60#T Finch Opaque Smooth is ideal for pencils.
I' m not sure why it works so much better than the 50# release, which I think is too slick. But I usually only get one whole working day, so I don't get this problem. Which are some papers/books that geniuses like to use for long-term writing and/or writing with pencil?
This is something I think should be explored further, as some pens (and some papers) do better than others when it comes to securing writing for the post-it. Let's take a look today at what makes a pencil efficient for long-term writing, because (as we all know) pencil is forever. We will deal with two consecutive articles on the subject of stationery and supplies.
If I think of a good journal pen, there are some thoughts that I like to consider. If you read this page again, it could also be used as a guideline for the selection of the pen (!) in general, although the styles on this page could be slightly different or even very different if that were my intent here.
Whereas the traces of a pencil may actually be on the page, I would rather see them with the unaided eyes. It is more likely that a pencil will keep making sharp strokes if the tip is strong and retains its edge without breaking and contaminating the pen.
There'?s a point I like to keep clear and sober. If the pencil is plain, it takes less effort to make a marking. There is less fissured writing, and that's always a good thing if you're cautious when writing - not to speak of combating manual sleep. Solid graphite pens are smear-resistant, but they can press the sheet through the printing process necessary to make markings with them.
Some softer and/or darker pens, however, are more resistant to smudging than others. It is a kind of grail that many single pencil designs seem to strive for, along with a mixture of obscurity and dot retentions (a concept I don't like). In almost all pencil and hardcover pencil cases I have used, it is about the transmission of pencil between the pages - at least when writing on one side that has written on the other.
In such cases I always use a flat page between the pages. An individually tailored part of an old card (a technique I've used for years) can hold several laptops, and a Rhodia card that has been made to measure also works very well. I am looking for a pencil that offers a good equilibrium between dark, wipe resistant and slickness.
Therefore I will give some samples of pens that I find useful for long-term writing. However, you can have this amazing pencil in more colours if you buy from eBay in Europe. It' become my least popular journal kernel. While the MMX is nice, you can write a pencil for a good camp outing.
Both the solid center in the 602 (and 211, 56 and 344) and the flame-retardant center in the 24 and 530 are both slick and don't lubricate easily on good grade tissue, though I am learning more toward the sleeker side of the range of decent papers for longtime pencil writing. General's Layout - This pencil is strangely smudge-proof, with a long-lasting tip, for a pencil that creates such stains.
A slightly broader, round shape is a real True Writing Comfort benefit. Camel "Natural" HB - There is not much to like about this pencil. This definitely makes a much easier line than most of my japanes HB pens, but the tip is first-class. The Faber-Castell Castell (9000 in the Faber-Castell series) - This pencil can run smoothly through the Faber-Castell Castell series without becoming dull and greasy.
Your precise score will vary depending on how much dark you ask for and what kind of note you write on. If you try a 1B on moleskine or field notes sheet (see the next article), you will know what I am talking about. General's Cedar Pointe HB - This is a great allround pencil.
The first time I tried them in 2005, the leaders were too tough for the journal. Of course, this also applies to long-term writing. They both make slippery, black spots that remain in place. I' m sure I forget some things and I know I lean a lot on some of the graphite pens I've used recently. So what are some things that fellow members notice and some favourite journal pens among us buddies?
Do you know how to use it? Can you believe scribbling, testing with a pencil or even sticking things on it? However, they are also "lost" pages if you want to type on ruled sheet of water. I' m not saying "think out of the box" - but maybe copy the line.
It made me take out some pencils (Bic Cristal Bolds, drawing pencils, fat Uniball Airs) and go crazy because I am writing so much in pencil that it can be suffocating. Writing with pencil also has the effect of overanalyzing every bit of pencil I use.
I' ve taken part in the National Novel Writing Monday five occasions, and this year I''won'' for the third year. Aside from writing something I like to do in January, what was special for me this year was that I did it all in pencil. While I think the pens I used this year might be a funny contribution, today I want to talk about something I learnt a great deal about last month: points storage.
I' m not sure I've ever seen an extensive debate about what we mean by that in the pencil world, but I think it's fair to say that you usually think how sharply a pencil remains when you write / draw with it, i.e. how much of the dot is over.
But, having written more than 50,000 words in 30 working day pencil, I have found that it is more subtle than that. My suggestion is that a more useful or practicable way to think about retaining points is to think about retaining the letter*, and that the problem is the permanence of the points and not the clarity.
I used some smooth japanese-style pens like the Blackwing 344 and 56 this year, both with the same kernel like the 602. It' cloudy but not really smooth, and the retentions were the best of the Blackwing lines until the publication of Vol. 24 in early 2016.
For me it was much more about suppleness and writing pace than pencil that remained sharply sharpened when I tried to write a poor novel on pen. I used a very slippery piece of writing in the Yoobi composers' book, which turned out to be very good for the work.
It would slide, but not lubricate the whole place like on Rhodia-Papier. In the beginning of a writing lesson, I tried a 2016 Dixon Ticonderoga, which was handpicked at Staples, flooded with water and sweat. Whereas I could get four pages out of a Blackwing 602 equivalents kernel (of about 250-300 words each), I was hardly able to type two pages before I had to sharpen the ticonderoga.
Besides, the pencil was almost as strong as it was when I began writing with it. I used a car stop pencil grinder that almost didn't use the knives on the pencil. Nevertheless, due to the amount of pencil I could apply, I could find a usable writing area.
It got more difficult when I found out that the 344 could continue writing as long as the somewhat tougher 24, maybe even a little longer. Certainly, the slickness of the sheet could have given the 344 (and 56) an unnatural border because it cut off a little less pencil than a tooth-colored sheet.
Perhaps a slightly tougher 24 would give the border and make the 344/56 blunt very quickly. With the new Blackwing Volume 530 (which has the same solid kernel as the 24), I've found that it blunts on Field Notes as quickly as the 344 I used last weeks.
To me, how long a pencil is useful before it needs to be sharpened is a equilibrium of obscurity and what we generally call point retentions. It is my suggestion that a pencil often has more life than a hard one, because it can still work with a blunt tip. However, I suggest a shift in our pencil dictionary to Point Durability, i. e. how long a dot is useful to make markings on pencil, not how long it stays sharpen.
While a sharpened, bright pencil often does not make marks, a half dull, dark pencil still drags around on the pen. It makes me see my darker/softer pens in a whole new way and helps me see why I so much like Blackwing (which I call the MMX for the year it was introduced).