How to make a small Book

Making a little book

You now have a very small folded sheet of paper. It'?s not a book yet. It' a big one now. Now, to make a large book, you need a large industrial trimmer to cut the large stack of paper with a clean cut.

This mini-book is ideal as a gift or simply as a notebook to store in the house.

Binding a (real) small book

Hello, in this manual I will show you how to tie your own little notepad. You can find a lot of bookbinding lessons on the web that are often really good, but almost none of them are like making genuine scroll book. What's with the little book? Now, to make a large book, you need a large size guillotine to trim the large pile of papers with a neat trim.

Well, this one has a tough case and goes so well in a bag that I didn't even realize it and thought I'd had it. Something to stock up on your book. Practical: I' m going to make an A8 format book. Format does not play a role, but A8 is only a regular A4 signature folder in half 4x.

Slice your A4 pages into 8 A4 pages and split each A4 page in half. This is the major part of the book. In order to make the section, put 3 of these pleated pages into each other, later these pages will be sown. You only have to do 2 of them.

Those will be the covers. Do NOT bend them in the centre, but to the side a little more so that a large part and a small part are formed. It doesn't play a role, but it should be a little thicker than regular papers, I only used the rest of the beautiful one.

As this is a small book, I will only use two of them. Squeeze the profiles between 2 planks (I used very thick cardboard). Using a drawing pen and straightedge, line a line about 0.5 to 1 cm from the margins, according to the length of your book.

Usually for regular textbooks there are pretty exact places where you can put the tapes, but I don't recall it and I just dropped the sheet of papers they're on. It doesn't even count for such a small book. Attempt to make it symmetric! Cut deeply enough to get through all 3 pieces of sheet of paper.

Take the parts out of the brackets. It is to make them larger to make stitching easier, and if your blade has not gone all the way through, you can fill in the hole. Adhesive is applied in a thin area of 2-4 mm from the cuff.

It' simple to use another piece of piece of paper in order to hide most of the beautiful piece of foil and keep a small line open at the crease. Then collect the ear you have made and put adhesive on the largest tab, but do not fully cloak it. It must be a line without adhesive.

Put both of your ear tips on the beautiful leaves you just stuck on. Now place everything between the terminals and leave out the top bits. Spread a lot of adhesive and let it dries a little. Set the book in your parentheses so that your ear is free.

I took it out of a decorative band and trimmed it about 1.5-2 cm smaller than your book. It' a metallic thing that's NOT GOOD, it' a little bit of cloth. So I didn't stick very well on the back of the book and had to use other adhesives and became a filthy muddle.

You will find a small sheet of power stationery that is slightly smaller than the size of your book and slightly broader than your nap. Adhesive is applied and the power stationery is glued to the gaze. Place the whole book between the staples or under a baler to allow it to cure.

Once the adhesive is clean, remove the book from the clips and try to tear the inner tab of the earmuff. You' ll find that you can only tear the part you didn't stick to. Tearing " ensures that the sheet becomes thinner so that you cannot see your ears through the sheet when your book is out.

Smooth it with some sandpaper. Usually this operation necessitates a large cutter that can slice thick mountains of papers. This involves trimming a very small piece from each side of the pages so that the pile of papers has a book-like look. Instead I use a regular one (max. 12 pieces of paper) and had to remove some things to put the book in.

They may also find that the extreme sides are curved over the corners of the loop, but if you put them back between the staples for a few mins. this will be fixed. Now, take your book. Trim out squares from rather thin compressed board (lead 1mm thick). Put the lid on the line you just did, but pay attention to para laxes, I laid my box almost 1 mm from the rim and you can clearly see that it is not good in the end results.

Eventually you tear off the specially unadhered earlobe to get a beautiful connection between tissue and no tissue. Now, usually I went on without this move (because I forget about it), but then I screwed it up and had to reboot from stage 8, so you can see both the orange and the orange covers.

Browband is the cloth on which you take a book off the bookshelf. Usual shit is just too thick to use in this little book, so I'll do it myself. Normally you can't goofy by using the material you wrap your book in, but you can select anything you want.

Now, chop off two little slices of your sleeve to make the headgear. Utilize a small length of cord (I used the rest of the sewing) and place it in the center of your wrap. Admit the adhesive and halve it with the cord in the pleat so that it curves a little.

Applying power so that the curvature is greater on one side than on the other. Locate a thin carton. I' ve used a slice of a grandma crate or a granola crate will be the same. Trim the paperboard into a rectangular shape with the same height of your paperboard and a width corresponding to the width of your book with the envelopes.

Then find some strong tissue and trim a slice smaller in height than your book and much wider than the width of your spine. Put the adhesive on the craft stationery and put the cardboard back on it, then paste everything on the book. You can see that the back is not directly stuck to the book.

It' pretty feasible in big ones, but it's pretty difficult in small ones. Have a look at the images, the filth is due to semi-dried adhesive from repeating and repeating. Because your book is small, use a thin envelope (so no thick hide or the like), I used something I thought was thin, but it wasn't, and I messed it up.

Second, use ADHESIVE glues that dry very slowly and do not adhere very harshly, so you can repeat things several time. I' ve had my bookbinder badly glued with a great deal of watermark (but it still cured too quickly), maybe with a "Pritt Stick" or something like that. My aqueous adhesive made the back of the carton and the lid a little moist and formed a little sad.

Then trim a slice of your binding to the length of your book and a little more (about the length of your slots). Spread the poor adhesive over the whole packaging and the outside of your book and put it around the envelopes of your book.

To push the packaging inwards, use 2 Toothpick. Then trim off the edges of your wrap bow, but be careful! Use instead a blank of paperboard of the same size as your envelopes and draw a line with that blank of paper one inch from the edge of your envelope.

Push the envelopes down and lift the paper of your book to open the slots you have made, folding the packaging back into the slots at the side of your carton. Then, unfold the wrap at the ends of your sleeve, but pay attention to the ends!

It' simpler to first push up the winding at the edge and then carefully slide the remainder of the winding over it. Place some sheets of tape between the envelopes and the remainder of your book so that the pages are not stuck to the envelopes. Well, I don't have many of those images, but you'll need your sleeve wrapped in your own wrapper.

First, slice the surplus packaging that you have folded over your envelope by making a slice and peel it off. Do it so that when you turn the envelope over, it just comes over your packaging and you don't see a carton. Then put some adhesive on the envelope and turn over your envelope on.

Place some sheet of hard copy in between the wrappers and put some extra load on them. I' ve produced a little book. Even the cut technology from stage 7 should be better, even when grinding the piece of wood the cut was a little crooked, so that the addition of the rectilinear coverings led to crooked looking mats.

I' m going to revise this book in the next few month.

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